31
Jan 22

Treading water

Just keeping busy now.

And got a new tool. Well. I say new, it was made in the 1950s in Germany, but never bought. New old stock is the term I think.

It’s a welt knife. For cutting welts, obviously. What’s a welt?

The problem is trimming the welt without cutting into the upper leather. The solution was the welt knife – it’s got a blunt runner of sorts on one side of the blade, you run that along the upper and the blade cuts the welt and only the welt. Why do I want it? Because you need to do that for a french edge, where the lining of a piece is glued face-to-face to the outside, stitched, then folded over the top of the piece to the inside, glued again, and stitched again.

Leaves you with a bit to trim off below the second stitch line. Do it with a normal straight knife, you risk cutting into the piece itself. If you flip over the straight knife and cut with the back of the knife running along the piece, you get something of a ragged cut like you see there. The welt knife on the other hand has a blunt runner thing beside the cutting edge:

That lets you do this:

Not a perfect result but not bad for having used it only three or four times. Plus, it cost half the price of a french edger, which is the only other tool I’ve seen used for this. So I’m grand with that.


12
Jan 22

Holiday gifts

That time of the year again and I had planned to make some specific gifts. So I needed some specific leather 😀

All Italian veg-tan finished leather. Some of it is earmarked for a purse I’ve been prototyping, but the matt emerald green was used to make this Corter Leather pattern bucket bag for my sister:

And the ocean blue was used for a small backpack along with some nice suede for a friend in the US:

First time making a strap, that. It’s annoying that I’m still learning stuff quickly – every time I make something like this and look back at it, I see six to ten things I’ve since learned you should do…

Some of the pieces are more rustic though 😀

That one taught me that Americans have very small beer bottles – the pattern came in two sizes and the standard beer bottle size was smaller than this one and only fitted 300ml bottles, not our 330ml ones. I did finish the first one after finding that but all it’s really up to is hot sauce…

I think the most well-received ones went to the niece and nephew though…

My niece (who’s six and going through her pink phase) is quite taken with the bag.

That bag (it’s not fully finished in that photo) was for another friend who’s helped enormously this year.

Gotta say, the hot foil press was really useful in all of these. The press itself wasn’t very spendy – the brass letters set was a bit, but the biggest part of the total cost was a shock – almost a hundred euro to ship the package from Hong Kong and when it arrived, without any advance warning, there was 120 euro in customs, duties, handling fees and so on levied at the door. And the driver couldn’t take a card, we had to call into the head office to sort the bill out. Not very impressive UPS, not impressive at all.

Can’t fault the machine mind you, it’s small, neat, effective. Not up to commercial use obviously, but even for a small batch run it’s pretty nice. It’s a pain swapping out the T-slot holder so you can bolt in the makers mark and other custom stamps, but there’s a stamp holder that you can get that will fit into the T-slot so that should prevent a few more fun burns on the fingers (the nut you have to tighten to hold the stamp is in between two plates that are almost always at 120C….)

Playing with the machine and some of the foils I got was fun 😀

I was also in a secret santa this year with some other engineers. My giftee was a D&D fan who also camps so obviously you’d make up a travel dice tray and dice bag…

Still getting to grips with the foil stamp there 🙁 And in return, someone sent me this beautiful thing:

🙂

Bunch of new tools arrived for these – an acrylic pattern for wallet making (well, more so I could see what acrylic patterns looked like), a strap cutter for those bag straps, magnetic bag closures, some fine thread, a few stitching chisels and more rivets in brass and copper. It’s funny how much cheaper tools are for this than they are for woodworking!

Even got a set of dies and moulds to make this lovely little cats-paw. Might be making a few of those for fun.

And bought some more materials – lining leather, some more natural vegtan leather and some more vegan leather (the cork-bonded-to-fabric stuff). I think I have enough materials for six months or so now at the rate I’m going.

The cork fabric stuff is really interesting – they (MB Cork) have done some really neat effects with metallic inlays and dyes.

Still have a few more projects underway, but trying to get as much time walking in the hills as the weather allows…

The tool collection has… grown a bit. In fact I think it’s almost complete. There are some things that I don’t have to hand but they’re more machines than tools. And most of this is cheap knockoff clones from chinese sources rather than actual decent versions and I might change some of the most used ones out over the next few months but for right now I don’t really have a hole in the tool lineup for what I’m doing, which is really nice.

I even found my old schoolbag from primary school (my parents may be hoarders). It’s in dire shape and I hated its harness when I was Calum’s age, but maybe I can rehabilitate it, improve it a bit and Calum might get some use from it if it works…


14
Dec 21

New material

So back around the start of August, I wanted to buy myself a new notebook because the one I normally carry in my back pocket was exhausted. It was also torn and shredded because that’s a rough pocket for a notebook to live in. I bought yet another A6 sized moleskine lookalike, but I got one in a leather cover because I figured that’d last longer (it’s now December and yes, it’s definitely weathered better than the paper covers would). It showed up in a very fancypants box too.

The thing is though, that cost me a little over €20. And it’s just an A5 size bit of leather with five holes stamped in it and a bit of elastic. That… rankled a little. I could almost definitely make one better than that (with a pen loop no less) for way less, right?

So there are cheap leatherworking kits on Amazon that would be useless for a professional but if you just want to give it a try, they’re grand. And Amazon also sells leather scraps and offcuts in bundles, and they’re always useful for things like elbow and knee patches on clothes as well. And youtube has a metric ton of tutorial videos (I can recommend Corter Leather‘s as a great starting point). So off I went.

Yeah, that’s awful, but it was the first line of stitching I ran in leather, and it was oddly theraputic – just repetitive hand work, no thinking required. Hell of a break at the time, so I kept doing it.

The thread is a polyester one, and you melt the ends to secure the stitching when done, so you use cigarette lighters a bit in this. So one of the easier beginner projects is a cigarette lighter case. This was the first thing I did in leather. Bit of wet molding there as well, which didn’t work as well as it does in better leathers, but it was still useful. Still using it today in fact.

Around about this time, it was my birthday and my parents thought “he has a new hobby, thank feck, don’t have to spend six months thinking up a new gift this year” and so we went here, the Dublin Leather Store and came away with a little over half a cow in vegetable tanned leather (there’s basically two kinds of leather – veg tanned and chrome tanned – and for what I was doing veg tan was better suited). It’s a fun place, very much in the Irish style of “we’ve been doing this for fifty years ‘cos we love it and who cares if we’re not rich, we know our stuff”. Well recommended.

Pictured: A little over half a cow, in flat-pack form.

So September starts and I’ve gotten myself some good needles and some good thread, and I started in on my first real projects – wanted to make a pen case for Mom’s pen and pencil set after one I’d seen on youtube.

Might have been ambitious for a first real project I guess.

But they were nice pens and it came out okay in the end I thought.

I mean, it’s rough. I can see fifty things wrong with it from here. But I got to sit by the window and do something with my hands and let my brain rest, so I called it a success.

I also wanted to make a custom notebook for my brother, which went okayish. It’s just a prototype, I’m going to make another with the lessons learned from this one.

By this point, I’ve picked up a few more tools from cheap aliexpress kits and the like, and I got a cheap toolchest from Halfords to put them in to try to keep things tidy.

The notebook turned out okayish too.

But my design suggestion wasn’t adopted…

I thought it would have done wonders for community policing, but oh well…

Mom sews and is in a sewing circle and around this time they were doing a charity thing where they made up bags of basic sewing tools to send to Syria because refugees there were living in tents with no way to repair clothing or tents. Sounded like a good thing to do so I looked up how you make leather bags and it turns out to be easy enough.

And I started making pouches and things for storing the tools around this point as well.

My brother is left-handed so I made a left-handed notebook (it has a plastic stiffener in it so you can rest your writing hand beside the notebook while writing away from a desk).

Things are starting to get a little neater by this stage, so I got myself a decent craft knife or two.

The finger-ring versions are interesting – they make it really easy to make a vertical cut.

And at the same time, Tandy Leather were having a sale ‘cos they’d been in business for 100 years, so I bought some more cattle…

And got a new makers mark as well.

We’re into October now and mom didn’t have anything to keep her Covid cert in…

Again, getting neater but still not great.

This one was interesting – it’s a Corter Leather pattern, but it’s not leather. That’s cork (the wood) on a fabric backing. Works a lot like leather. Interesting material.

It’s a simple coin purse with a card slot. Bit more ragged looking than the norm that one.

Bought an arbor press around this point to do stamping and cutting and setting rivets and so on. Works really well, wasn’t very spendy. Used that to make a very late birthday gift for a friend (hi Fiona!).

And also made a small gift for another small boss lady:

I was doing a bit of knitting at this point as well, so I made a tool wrap thingy for the needles and such:

That’s probably the biggest and most complex thing I’d made to that point, and as you can see, it’s not *quite* big enough – I still haven’t gotten the judgement right on leaving things a bit larger and trimming back at the end. You have to get over the fear of wasting material for that, not quite there yet. That’s leather lined with canvas and using hemming tape to stop the canvas fraying at the edges so I’m starting to use more things now.

I started this bag at the start of November, with a new makers mark (the one I’d gotten before was punching through the leather, it was really meant for metal I think), and experimenting with dying leather. That bag’s still not finished because I was waiting for something that’s only just arrived. I’ll finish it off soon.

I spent November walking up hills and having socially distanced hot chocolate.

I got the idea from watching hiking videos from Sweden on youtube, and when taking the thermos flask up the hill proved a pain because it leaked, got some cheap camping stuff.

I did make up more tool pouches and a few other small things as well.

And I got a stitching pony. It does help with the stitching though you can’t always use it. That material is flooring vinyl btw, an interior decorating shop just gave me a few metres of offcuts of the stuff. It’s great prototyping material for leather. Cuts and sews like leather, and lets you see if a pattern works before using more expensive leather on it.

A few more cheap toolkits showed up from china and I made pouches for them:

And I splurged on a hot foil press as well because it looked awesome but it wouldn’t show up for almost another month. The lettering showed up early:

Probably the most awkward fiddly project to date was to make a case for some binoculars (took them up hill walking and the belt loop is too low, but I can fix that):

And I finally got round to making my much-easier-than-spending-€20-on-amazon notebook cover…

So yeah, no, spend the €20, it’s cheaper than learning to do it yourself, even if its a lot more satisfying to do it yourself. I mean, it worked for me because I needed something to do with my hands at the time, but it’s just not the most economical way to get a leather notebook cover 😀